Very early on Saturday morning Cliff and I drove to the coast, although we live in Suffolk it's a 2 hour journey zig-zagging eastwards to the far edge of the county. Months back we had booked to go on a tour of Orford Ness, we'd never been before. We hadn't payed much attention to what we were signing up for . . . and that turned out to be THE tour for 20th century military history enthusiasts!
For most of the 20th Century (1913 to 1993 to be precise) the 16 kilometre long shingle spit that hugs the coast of Suffolk just south of Aldeburgh, was the top secret research site for everything from the first forays into air warfare, parachutes and aerial photography through to testing the aerodynamics of the UK's atomic bombs and at the height of the Cold War the huge array of aerials of 'Cobra Mist' secretly eavesdropped on the Soviet Block. If this is your thing, read more here.
Luckily for me the sign above no longer applied! It was a grey day and there was a cold wind blowing off the North Sea, I settled for taking photographs rather than sitting on the shingle
Orford Ness is now owned by the National Trust, the shingle spit is a nature reserve of international importance . . . you may have seen it featured on the BBC Springwatch (watch Richard Taylor-Jones stunning film here start at 31mins in, available until Thursday 20 June 2013). I found the juxtaposition of the mysterious architecture and the encroaching shingle and plants, fascinating.
Inside the buildings, while our amazingly knowledgeable guide talked of boffins (and apparently the word was first ever used to describe one of the top researchers in these very buildings!) I searched out textures and geometric shapes in the decaying laboratories.
Glassless windows framed views across the vast expanse of shingle . . . much of it still out of bounds because of the danger of unexploded ordnance.
The next chapter in the story of Orford Ness will be about the plants and wildlife that are now the only inhabitants (apart from the day visitors that come across by boat from the mainland) and gradually they will hide the secrets for ever.
On the seaward side of the Ness stands a lighthouse –
Trinity House have made the decision that in these days of satellite navigation, lighthouses are no longer required the light will be turned off in a few days time and it will be left to the mercy of the North Sea which is eating back the coast at a rate of 5 metres a year.
Eventually it will collapse onto the shingle and be smashed apart by the waves.
You can see more of my photos of Orford Ness here:
the buildings
the windows
the textures
the plants
I hope to go back to explore again soon... and hopefully see more of the birds and hares.
Celia
x
You had me worried with that first photo I thought you're breaking the law!
ReplyDeleteToo bad about the lighthouse I hate to think that it will be lost to the sea I just love lighthouses. Have they given any thought to moving it we've done that Massachusetts.
Thank you for the tour it was delightful!
Sadly I think this lighthouse will be left to the elements, others nearer to towns may be put to other uses, but I very much doubt there is the money available to be spent on moving it.
DeleteHaving just returned from my weeks holiday in the Rendlesham forest I know the area well. Orford the village has one of the best bakeries which sell real sour dough bread and all butter pastries. It has a smoke house which does wonderful smoked products and the the restaurant called the Butley does fish and best of all their own oysters. I have been holidaying in the area for some 30 years.
ReplyDeleteHave you been over onto the Ness?
DeleteWe came home with smoked cod's roe from Pinney's and made taramasalata.
No I have dogs who are not allowed because of the birds. Though I have often stood on the quay and looked longingly across. Pinney's is own the Butley restaurant but I believe that the "jolly sailor" has changed hands and is now no longer a spit and sawdust pub and worth a try for lunch. Next holiday I will give it a try and see.
DeleteHubby would love the history of this place! I must show him this post. Pity about the lighthouse. I hope someone finds a way to preserve it.
ReplyDeleteWell I think you need to put his name down for the next tour ;-)
DeleteAnd while he's doing that we could meet up for a mooch around Orford and the tea shops.
In America some of our best wildlife areas are at large military bases because the land was left alone. They're now partnering with conservation groups to keep it that way.
ReplyDeleteThat is exactly why Orford's ecology is unique and undisturbed, there are other such sites in the UK such as Salisbury Plain and parts of the Brecks in south west Norfolk.
DeleteIt is good that the National Trust has now taken on the Ness and allowing a few visitors to see it.
Celia, thank you so much for this very interesting introduction to a fascinating place.
ReplyDeleteI don't know if I will every be able to see this area myself, but feel that I caught its atmosphere through your excellent photos and reporting. Bravo to you for freezing on the shingle!
xo
I found it to be very inspiring... lots of ideas buzzing around in my head!
DeleteI have tried to post a comment with some difficulty. I will perhaps message you on FB
ReplyDeleteHi, will pop over there to see.
DeleteOrford Ness looks fascinating. Your photos have captured its own unique atmosphere. I did see the piece on Springwatch and loved the way the wildlife is returning there. It will probably take me just a couple of hours to get there, too - I must plan a visit.
ReplyDeleteI hope you manage to get there, it is both strange and fascinating.
DeleteCelia, I looked on the NT website about Orford Ness after seeing it on Springwatch. It was indeed a beautiful film and it reminded me that Robert Macfarlane writes lyrically about it in 'The Wild Places' so I've re-read that chapter and would love to visit the place even more now. I am envious of your visit but the stunning photographs make up for it. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the reminder, I've taken The Wild Places off the book shelf and we re-read later.
DeleteIt's a treasure trove of textures - you'd love it!
Oh lordy (dances from foot to foot) this is fabulous I love it and shall be back to look at more photos. There is nothing better than a group of derelict buildings :) x
ReplyDelete